By Natalia Mitrofanova, Contributing Writer
Every May, Geneva welcomes visitors from around the world for a variety of international
events. Yet GemGenève feels different.
Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, the exhibition brought together around 250
exhibitors from Switzerland and abroad at Palexpo from May 7 to 10. Dealers, designers,
gemologists, collectors, historians, students, and jewelry enthusiasts gathered to explore
exceptional gemstones, rare jewels, and contemporary creations that often blur the line between
design, art, and craftsmanship.
I was struck by how relaxed and approachable the atmosphere felt. Despite the presence of
some of the world’s most respected names in jewelry and gemstones, GemGenève remains
surprisingly accessible. Conversations happen naturally. Exhibitors are willing to share their
knowledge. Visitors are encouraged to ask questions and engage with the stories behind the
pieces.
Walking through the exhibition halls, it quickly became clear that this is not simply a
marketplace for luxury goods. Each stand seemed to have its own personality. Some exhibitors
showcased extraordinary colored gemstones that had taken decades to reach the market. Others
focused on antique jewelry with fascinating histories attached to individual pieces. Several
contemporary designers presented collections that challenged traditional ideas of jewelry
design altogether.
One of the busiest areas throughout the exhibition was the section dedicated to emerging
designers and educational initiatives. It was encouraging to see students exhibiting alongside
established maisons, demonstrating that the future of the industry is being actively nurtured
rather than simply discussed.
Among the highlights of this year’s exhibition was the continued presence of Ukrainian
designers, who participated for the seventh consecutive year with the support of the Strong &
Precious Art Foundation.
The Ukrainian pavilion attracted steady interest from visitors throughout the event. While many
national presentations focus primarily on commercial collections, the Ukrainian exhibitors
stood out for their artistic approach and willingness to experiment with form and materials.
This year’s presentation drew inspiration from the legacy of Kazimir Malevich and the broader
avant-garde movement. Geometric forms, strong contrasts, architectural structures, and
unconventional combinations of materials appeared throughout the collections.
What I found particularly interesting was how differently each designer interpreted similar
artistic influences. Some pieces were bold and sculptural, while others expressed the same ideas
through simplicity and restraint. Wood, gold, asymmetrical shapes, and minimalist
compositions appeared repeatedly, yet each collection maintained its own distinct identity.
Among the participating designers were Irina Karpova, Arevik Jewellery, Hollo Jewelry,
Lobortas Classic Jewellery House and several other contemporary Ukrainian creators
represented through the Strong & Precious Art Foundation. Their work combined strong
craftsmanship with distinctive creative perspectives, reflecting a wide range of artistic
approaches and interpretations of contemporary jewelry design.
Several visitors spent considerable time discussing the pieces with the designers themselves,
which added another dimension to the experience. These conversations often revealed the
research, experimentation, and craftsmanship involved in bringing each collection to life.
Beyond the exhibition itself, GemGenève continues to distinguish itself through its educational
programme. Throughout the four days, visitors could attend conferences, panel discussions,
gemological presentations, workshops, masterclasses, and live demonstrations.
One presentation might focus on the science behind gemstones, while another explored
historical jewelry techniques or contemporary design trends. This diversity of content attracts
a remarkably broad audience. It is not unusual to see students, collectors, academics, artisans,
and industry professionals sitting side by side during the same session.
Several exhibitors I spoke with noted that younger visitors are showing increasing interest in
understanding how jewelry is made rather than simply purchasing finished products. That trend
was visible throughout the event, particularly around educational exhibits and live
demonstrations, where crowds often gathered to observe traditional craftsmanship techniques.
The exhibition concluded on May 10 with the GemGenève Awards Ceremony, one of the most
anticipated moments of the week.
Unlike many industry award ceremonies, the atmosphere felt less competitive and more
celebratory. The focus was firmly on recognizing creativity, technical excellence, innovation,
and emerging talent.
Awards were presented across a range of categories, including jewelry design, artistic
illustration, gem photography, and initiatives supported by the Éric Horovitz Foundation. The
Brooch 2.0 competition once again attracted considerable attention, with visitors actively
participating in the selection of the Public’s Favourite Prize.
Particularly impressive were the works presented by students and young designers from HEAD
Genève and other leading institutions. Their projects reflected a willingness to experiment with
new materials, concepts, and forms while maintaining a deep respect for traditional
craftsmanship.
Perhaps the most lasting impression from GemGenève is that it remains remarkably authentic
in an industry often associated with exclusivity and spectacle.
While many luxury events compete for attention through scale and visibility, GemGenève
succeeds by focusing on expertise, creativity, education, and genuine human interaction.
Visitors leave not only having seen extraordinary gemstones and jewelry, but having learned
something new about the people, skills, and stories behind them.
In a world increasingly shaped by technology and automation, there is something refreshing
about an event that places such importance on knowledge, craftsmanship, and personal
connection.
That may be one of the reasons why GemGenève continues to attract such a loyal international
community ten years after its founding.
